Those who know me understand that I love many things Italian. So much has been said of Italian art, clothes, cars, food and wine that it almost seems redundant to stand on the same track and illuminate the virtues of the Italian experience. Having been raised Italian-American and having worked in our family wine business here and in Italy, I find myself drawn to the fine rewards of exploring the charms that Italy brings us from time to time.

We know that nothing is perfect and this goes for Italy, as well. But Italy comes close to those things that seem to be orbiting around what some think might of as perfection, such as taking naps in the afternoon, lazy lunches al fresco, warm, Roman nights and a glass of broodingly dark Barbera with Risotto Milanese. One of my very favorite memories is sitting in the little hill town of Frascati drinking the flinty, dry wine of that name and eating antipasti and cold melon under a 75-year-old grape arbor and letting time drip away like a leaky faucet no one cares about or wants to fix.

The Italians have seen it all before and know that it just keeps on going, whatever we try to do to fix it. Their idea is to sit back and watch the human parade, dabble in beauty, explore their hedonistic inclinations and open their arms to the rest of the world in what could only be understood as The Great Invitation for all to visit and explore. It is family first but friendship a very close second to the Italian people. A huge part of this historically hedonistic venture are Italy's great wines.

One of the best-known and wonderful treats this delightful nation has to offer is the great Sangiovese grape of Chianti, which brings warmth, structure and length to a terrific glass of wine. Chianti is known for its ability to go with just about any fare, from cheese plates to very red meat. Pasta of all types go with this wine and I have been fortunate to have had Chianti that has been aged for more than 20 years, which is a treat on every level.

Chianti comes in a variety of levels: Chianti, Chianti Classico, Chianti Rufina and Chianti Classico Riserva. Chianti can come from anywhere in the delineated area from Siena to Florence and is mostly of the Sangiovese grape, as are all other Chianti. This wine can be from marginal in taste (although with the advances in fine viticultural and enological practices, harder to find) to venerable Chianti from older estates. The "Classico" is from a more specific area in Chianti and here is where one finds the better and more profound Chianti from older vines and esteemed estates. Classic producers such as Frescobaldi, Antinori and Vignamaggio reside here and have been making Chianti for more than 500 years, some producers far longer! The "Riserva" designates a Chianti that has been aged longer and is of the highest quality (for the most part) to be found.

Chianti has been seen all over the world in restaurants as far away from Italy as Thailand as well as the very southern tip of Argentina and holds a great fascination for those who love cuisine. Chianti can make a dinner bloom with powerful flavors and can be used with just about any and all spices, Asian or Western. One of the great spices that endears itself with Chianti is rosemary. This herb is found just about everywhere in Tuscany and there is a saying that where rosemary is found on the table, one will find a glass of Chianti!

The old days of finding Chianti in the wicker basket are, thankfully, fading away. If you find these wines on the shelf, do not buy them, as they are not of the quality one should expect of this noble wine. Chianti today comes in the Bordeaux-type bottle, should be stored on its side and should be kept cool to the touch. There is also no such thing as an American Chianti. Again, in the old days, there were wines listed as "Chianti" but they were not of the noble Sangiovese grape and bore no resemblance to the real thing. If you happen to come across a bottle of American "Chianti," run away!

The best bet for Chianti is in about the $15 mark. Here we can find very good Chianti for the dollar spent and experience Sangiovese at a high level and primed for many different types of cuisine.

Again, Chianti is made for the table and should never be drunk alone — without food or without a great friend to share it with!

See you next week!