Portland has much to offer the Ashland palate
The Portland/Ashland connection is a strong one, despite the two cities serving as bookends on the extreme north and south of Oregon's I-5. Portlanders make up the largest share of Ashland's visitors, while Ashlanders in search of an urban escape are quick to depart for the city of roses. Transplanted Portlanders often end up in Ashland, and visa versa.
For Ashland restaurant-goers, another thread in this bond has been woven with the opening of a new restaurant in the Goose Hollow neighborhood of Portland. Gracie's Restaurant, located in the Hotel deLuxe, bears a familiar signature.
When the restaurant at the historic Ashland Springs Hotel was renovated and re-opened as Lark's, the owners hired Portland-area consultants to help start Lark's and train the staff. Patrick Bruce lived in Ashland for a few weeks in this capacity, developing deep bonds with the both the city, and the Lark's staff. Now Bruce serves as a shift manager for Gracies. His stamp of customer service is evident in both places.
Gracie's is the brainchild of Portland restauranteur, Gregg Schillinger, who has owned Paddy's Irish Pub and Grill in Portland for two decades. Schillinger set out to capture a mood from a bygone era. He succeeds on many levels.
"This place is like something from another era," Schillinger says, "but one we all want to hang around in."
Nothing grabs my heart like a great bar and the Driftwood Room is show stopper. Everything about it is just as a bar should be, with a great lighting-dark and mysterious-and a classic ambiance perfect for cocktail hour.
"Great martinis," Schillinger says proudly, and correctly. Mine with Grey Goose and three olives is perfect.
From the bar the restaurant is equally visually impressive, with high ceilings, hanging chandeliers, gilded pillars and majestic curtains. We sat a classic table with a curved high-backed booth on one side, a virtual throwback to times when customers wanted both privacy, and to be seen. Gracie's captures that flair, when going out was truly a night on the town.
Bruce's attention to service is evident. Every detail is important, and servers are trained to be helpful, but discreet. They truly serve, not intrude, which from my experience, is very similar to the structure Bruce helped build in Lark's. Around Ashland those in the restaurant business often speak of Lark's quality customer service. Gracie's offers the same high standards.
We asked for a wine that was as unique as the restaurant itself and Bruce's choice did not disappoint, choosing a Roots Pinot Noir from a tiny 6-acre vineyard in Oregon. The wine danced on the tongue, but as Bruce correctly pointed out, had a very soft hint of salt, that came from the unique vineyard's location. Roots pinot complimented the dinner and highlighted a small vineyard we didn't know, but will look to enjoy more of in the future.
Gracie's menu offers classic American fare but with creativity and style. The chef grilled the fillet mignon to perfection. I opted for something very different, a Roquefort and proscuitto stuffed pork chop topped with a port reduction served over a potato gnocchi, as a test of the chef's skill and creativity. Both were on display in fine fashion.
Memorable meals are hard to come by, but this one succeeded. The décor, bar, meals and wine each stood apart, different, unique and of high class, perfect for those weekends when you want more than simply going out to eat. Just as Schillinger wants to achieve, Gracie's and The Driftwood Room make for a classic night out on the town.
