Rediscovering Goose Hollow
Retro is back in fashion most everywhere, so it is no surprise that Portland's increasing revitalization of urban neighbors has finally landed on the nearby streets known to locals as Goose Hollow.
Goose Hollow, roughly the teen-numbered streets just north of I-405, near the renovated PGE Park, is classic Portland, circa 1950.
Oregon's largest city has been virtually transformed in the last decade or so, led by the uber-chic Pearl District, home to luxury high-rises, trendy restaurants, state-of-the-art public transportation and the largest of landmark's, Powell's City of Books.
The Pearl is not the only gentrified neighborhood in Portland, just the most successful. When I used to live near Portland, Powell's stood virtually alone among industrial blocks, next to the Henry Weinhard's Brewery that still actually brewed beer.
Now, Henry's is a 15,000-plus super-hip restaurant/bar/billiard room, Powell's remains Powell's only bigger and more modern, while everywhere else you turn is something shiny and new.
Of course the waterfront, once home to one strip of shops, the floating Newport Bay Restaurant and little else, is now a growing neighborhood of its own-most of it straight upward in trendy high-rise condos. Just a decade ago, Stanford's was the last restaurant on the waterfront before it dead-ended. Now it's the entry point to a whole new desirable urban lifestyle.
All of this is well known to the regular Portland-goer. Less known for a little while longer anyway, is Goose Hollow. But a new hotel, the classic Driftwood Room bar and the top-notch dining of Gracies is likely to change that relative anonymity very soon.
The classic Mallory Hotel, first built in 1913, is now fully restored as the Hotel deLuxe, an innovative leader in retro-class. The careful mixture of modern 21st century with classic 1950s style makes a statement from the first step inside. The lobby is up a flight of stairs, which greets travelers with a movie-sized screen that changes images of golden era Hollywood stars. Each image sets the tone for the entire hotel.
The old mail-shoot from days gone by remains next to the elevator. The original wood rafters and curving brick walls of the Driftwood Room remain, again combined with modern amenities, lighting and televisions to make a classic, cocktail hour bar, which is already a popular stop after a long day of work for area professionals. The bar sits across from a new restaurant with a touch of classic style, Gracie's.
On each floor, futuristic frames contain classic black and white images for a striking décor. Each floor has its own theme, centered around classic movies and their directors. Images of stars and starlets line the walls. But these aren't one-dimensional photos, but dynamic museum pieces that light up as you approach, offering tidbits of information in colored script below each photo. As you move away, the text fades away again.
Garbo or Gabel, Tracy and Hepburn, of course Bogie, surround guests and adorn the walls. Marilyn's gaze makes you feel like a leading man yourself as you walk to your room.
Once in your room the boutique styling leaves everything attended to. Rich velvets, classic woods, vibrant colors all mix harmonious with modern conveniences such as wireless internet, I-Pod stations, flat screen TVs and a "make it so" button, geared to high-end customer service.
Some rooms can be a bit cramped, and the bathrooms can be pretty plain Jane, but these are small concessions when compared to the many amenities.
Once out of the hotel you'll quickly realize that on 15th Street you aren't right next to anything, but close to virtually everything. Goose Hollow is still a neighborhood, with a nearby high school, and still affordable places live. But the area is too perfectly suited to all that's happening in Portland to remain this way for long.
The commuter rail goes by just a block away, and is free for all downtown travel. The Portland Street Car cuts down 10th street and wanders back and forth between the water front, the downtown, the Pearl and Nob Hill up on 24th. Of course, a cab ride to most anywhere in Portland is about as affordable as they come, but from the Hotel Deluxe it isn't really necessary. Walk a few blocks over the freeway and your smack in the downtown financial and shopping areas. Head a half dozen or so blocks to the north and the Pearl awaits. Go north to Nob Hill's eclectic shopping, or keep going to the Washington Park area, zoo and rose garden.
The Hotel deLuxe is nothing if not distinctive. For seasoned travelers who have spent too many nights in too many cities feeling every bit the same, this hotel is a notable exception. All of Portland awaits outside the door, while inside comes the chance to sense the golden era of Hollywood. The successfully blending of classic old with quality new is what this hotel, and most likely this entire neighborhood are about.
