April 20, 2005

Food & History

The Danish national anthem

Jeff Cheek

When I requested information about their national anthem from the Embassy of the Kingdom of Denmark, the Danes were typically generous. I received several booklets, a map, and a cookbook to use for “Food & History” columns. Thank you!

The best description I can give of Denmark is to think of a huge, tidy dairy farm with an industrial dynamo, Copenhagen, at its head. An old joke says every Danish recipe starts this way: “First, take one pound butter ...”

Denmark is a constitutional monarchy. Queen Margrethe is head of state but political power rests with the prime minister and parliament. This duality shows in many ways. Denmark has two national flags and two national anthems. This may confuse foreigners but is their way of paying respect to the popular royal family while recognizing the contributions other kings and queens have made throughout Denmark’s long and dramatic national history.

The Danish flag is a white cross on a field of scarlet. The national, or people’s flag, is rectangular. The Royal banner has a swallow tail with the same design and colors. It is called the Danneborg (cloth of the Danes). Despite their different shapes, both flags are Danneborgs.

A legend says that Denmark’s is the oldest national flag in the world. On June 15, 1219 King Valdemar II was leading his troops in the Battle of Lyndanise when a red and white banner fell from the sky into his hands.He saw this as a sign of divine approval and rallied his men to victory.

The royal national anthem also recalls great kings from the past. It was written in 1830 by poet Johannes Ewald with lyrics by D.F. Kulau. It is “Kong Kristian” and honors a great fighting leader, King Christian. “King Christian stood by towering mast; In mist and smoke; His sword was hammering so fast; Through Gothic helm and brain it passed; Then sank each hostile stern and mast; In mist and smoke; Fly, shouted they, For who can stand; Against Denmark’s Christian.”

The royal anthem is played for ceremonial occasions like state visits but the people’s anthem “I Know A Lovely Land” is more common. It is a celebration of the Danish homeland written by poet Adam Oehlenschlager around 1840. Hans Ernst Kroyer added the melody. It became their national anthem in 1844. “I know a lovely land; With shady spreading beeches; Near Baltic’s salty strand; It’s hills and valleys gently fall; It’s ancient name is Denmark; And it is Freya’s hall.” (Freya was a Nordic Goddess.)

I found a very tasty recipe for Brown Cabbage Soup in the gift cookbook. I reduced the butter by half for the second pot and it still tasted good. This is the original.

Ingredients

1 stick unsalted butter

5 cups shredded cabbage

5 cups canned beef broth

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon allspice

Preparation

Melt butter in large pot over low heat. Add cabbage, stirring so each piece is coated. Sprinkle with sugar. Stir well. Leave cabbage in pot for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, then turn up heat for 2 or 3 minutes, stirring constantly until cabbage browns. Add broth and allspice, bring to low boil, reduce heat and simmer for 40 to 50 minutes. Serve.