Ashland, Oregon

 

April 11, 2005

Essentially Ashland

Musings on the birth of Calle Guanajuato

Daniel Greenblatt’s Greenleaf Restaurant anchors the alley behind shops on the Plaza

Lance Pugh

It was during the late spring of 1980 that I stood, with my Architect/Artist brother-in-law, Richard King Woodling II, a took a hard look at the alley now known as Calle Guanajuato. I squinted and looked into the future and Rick drew what I described, the result being what turned out to be the two-story deck and outdoor seating that would be realized some five years later. A few years later John Gaffey, a local illustrator and artist, went at the concept as the first phase neared completion. I hung both the illustrations in my office and smiled … I knew that it would come to pass fully.

In 1980 Daniel Greenblatt came to Ashland in a van, which was loaded with most of his worldly possessions and a pregnant wife. He soon went to work at the Food Co-Op, eventually becoming one of their main buyers. He liked to think and move quickly and found the endless committee meetings not very productive, so he took his experience, along with some family backing and met with me regarding the space that once was Modern Barber (Vern Cordiere and Bob Richardson), then Lithia Creek Arts (Gretchen Wilson and Cici Brown). Modern Barber moved next to the liquor store and Lithia Creek Arts relocated in the upper level of 31 Water Street, the former location of The Vintage Inn.

Illustrations like this by
John Gaffey
foresaw the commercial development of Guanajuato Way-side dining.

Daniel was thinking of a very small operation similar in size to Pangea, but after looking at Woodling’s sketch, decided to go with a larger floor plan. Daniel leased the back of what was Banbury Cross (Joyce Deckleman), this accomplished by a wall-cut similar to what I’d done in the basement for The Wizard’s Den (Judy Jensen) that became Munchies (Arlene Bucich). At the same time he installed a deck along the alley and became the first to highlight creek-side dining.

In a strange play of events the city needed the property owners along the creek to donate their land, which spanned the creek up to Granite, this to make a match for a HUD grant that would be used to build the Bowmer Theater. This donated property, consisting of a dirt alleyway and berry bushes running along the creek, was given to the Parks Department, which promptly forbade any commercial activity taking place there. It was not until turning down Lenny Friedman’s (Pyramid Juice) request to run a Saturday Market for many years that the city administrator and parks director came upon a suitable candidate: The administrator’s wife. Now with the alley moving into a festive mood, the parks department began to allow restaurant seating in the Calle itself, all for a fee per chair per day.

Paying for the privilege of sitting on the property that you donated … how very Ashland.

The present incarnation of
the Greenleaf Restaurant
exemplifies an early vision of the Calle.
Submitted photos

By 1985 Daniel was serving homemade lasagna, salad and garlic bread for $3.95. The business was known then as Greenleaf Grocery and Delicatessen, replete with grains, pastas, oils, pastries and a produce case. The groceries didn’t sell that well and were gradually discontinued.

By 1987 Susan Powell (Pilaf) had several hot cases of homemade specialties, including lasagna, spanakopita, calzone, quiche and tortes. Booth seating was installed, new flooring and equipment added. The groceries were discontinued, leading to a new name: Greenleaf Delicatessen.

In 1989 Daniel enclosed the lower deck, hired a chef and went to table service, resulting in a new name: Greenleaf Restaurant. What had started out as a natural foods grocery and deli changed, over time, into a full service breakfast, lunch and dinner restaurant.

Greenleaf now employs 50 in the summer and 25 in the winter. Access to health insurance is provided and the benefits package includes a retirement plan. Daniel prides himself in the teamwork and family spirit of his staff, yet faults himself for being too much of a softie, as he listens to and treats his employees very well.

Throughout the last 21 years Daniel has remained like a rock in a sea of change. Many people come and go in Ashland, but Daniel’s Greenleaf (grocery and delicatessen, delicatessen, restaurant) remains steadfast, yet changing, through time.

The other day I dropped by Greenleaf for lunch, to dwell on the many remodels and scores of people who made their start working there. I saw the menu change, again and again in my mind, while I recalled the smells of the fresh and tasty fare. Throughout it all I kept seeing Daniel moving quickly about the operation, ensuring that everyone was well served. Then I recalled the omnipresent positive mood that permeated the staff and washed upon the clientele. Karma exists and Daniel is sitting on a mountain of it.

Future columns will focus on many downtown businesses and key people that have helped make Ashland unique. Geppetto’s, Alex’s, Brothers, and a host of influential people will lead the charge from times past to lend perspective to the revival of the Downtown. Send your favorite remembrances to: lance@journalist.com. Drop by my blog and help me figure things out: http://essentiallyashland.blogspot.com/