September 4, 2004

Downtown

Unveiling cements Rogue Valley's reputation for wines

Andrew Scot Bolsinger

Thursday night at the Peerless Hotel and Restaurant was as much a celebration of a brand new Southern Oregon wine label as it was a celebration of the Rogue Valley's budding success in winemaking - not to mention the amazing culture of food and wine in the region.

All of the 30 or so wine aficionados, sellers and of course, crafters, seemed to agree there was much to celebrate.

But on this night of officially unveiling Velocity and Velo, two new blended red wines crafted here in the Valley with fruit grown in the Valley, the highest calling may have been the baptism of the Rogue Valley's adopted son, Gus Janeway.

The New Breed

Janeway, 35, is the author, if you will, of these two new red wines, as well as the winemaker of Roxy Ann vineyard in Medford. While introducing his wine, he recalled a conversation with the area's godfather, John Weisenger, who extolled the virtues of the region.

Janeway was convinced and moved to the area to make the nectar of the gods himself.

"He came to the Rogue Valley specifically to make wine," said marketing consultant Elaine Smith.

He apprenticed at places like Pascal Winery and Griffin Creek before being hired as the winemaker at Roxy Ann, following the passing of founder Sarah Powell.

During that time, he soaked in all the experience of those around him.

"Gus is like a sponge," said Lois Holdrige, wife of Ray, a retired winemaker for Gallo Vineyards.

Janeway paid tribute to his guests and gave them recognition for their interest and contribution to Velocity and Velo.

"You are all so important to this wine," Janeway said prior to its uncorking.

Velocity and Velo

Ah yes, the wine. The complex blend of five fruits carefully crafted in Janeway's personal lab is certainly an auspicious beginning for the young winemaker, who began the project in 2002 with 29 barrels. Of those, he picked the 13 best that absolutely hit the target of excellence he wanted for his first wine and turned them into Velocity.

The dramatic red label is an attractive cover for the deep, complex, red wine within. Velocity's many flavors dance along the tongue, with bursts and surprises that stem from the intriguing blend of grapes.

"Gus is good winemaker, and this is a good wine," said Mail Tribune wine columnist Cleve Twitchell, giving us a sample of his forthcoming Sept. 22 column.

The remaining barrels of wine were equally important to Janeway. Having the ability to set the standard for Velocity at a very high level was critical, he said. So making a more affordable table wine with those barrels that didn't quite make the grade satisfied two basic needs: economically using all the wine, and making a wine that can be enjoyed "on any Tuesday night, relaxing at home," he said.

Those barrels became Velo, which retails for $17 as opposed to Velocity's $30. Janeway also used some of the barrels to make a private label wine for the Peerless Restaurant, a pairing that thrills both Janeway and the restaurant owners, Stu and Mary Hinds.

"We have been wanting to do this for some time," Mary Hinds said, "It just came together this year."

Janeway says he shares with the Hinds a common desire to celebrate the Valley's riches in food and wine, both championing the Valley's local tastes. Stu Hinds recently released a cookbook, "The Sustainable Kitchen," with recipes made from locally grown and/or raised ingredients.

Both say "it's an honor" to partner with the other, as much a tribute to the shared desire for excellence as their shared desire to tout the Valley itself.

Michael Briggs, manager and wine steward of the Peerless, said Velocity's introduction is yet another step of progress for all of the Rogue Valley. "The expansion of these past five years is turning this Valley into an area of distinction," he said.

For Janeway, the night crowned his place along among the next generation of winemakers who are pushing Southern Oregon onto the wine map. For his new wines, Velocity and Velo, it's a start of the area's newest label.

But in many ways, the Rogue Valley's growing culture was the real award winner Thursday night. As the wine flowed with Peerless appetizers that both looked and tasted of elaborate brilliance, the evening was in many ways a taste of what we have around us now, and what is indeed continuing to evolve.

"I think the Valley has tremendous promise," Janeway said.

So, too, was the sentiment among those gathered, about the winemaker himself.

Andrew Scot Bolsinger is the editor of the Daily Tidings and the author of "If Pennies Could Talk," a novel published in 2003.